Fuchsia, also known as bells, sea otters, and sea breams, is a native plant from South America, typically growing as a perennial shrub. When in bloom, it resembles an overhanging admiral with vibrant colors that attract many admirers. Fuchsia is quite sensitive to temperature changes—growth can be affected if the temperature drops below 5°C or rises above 30°C. In recent years, I have explored commercial seedling production methods for fuchsia and achieved good results. Below is a detailed summary of the key steps for rapidly cultivating the Golden Dragonfly variety.
First, prepare the nutrient paper pots. Take some used newspapers, open them flat, and fold them three times horizontally. Cut a piece of paper about 54 cm wide and 13 cm long. Place it around a can, cutting the paper 3 to 5 cm from the top of the can. Glue the edges together and fold the paper inward, flattening it to a height of 8 to 10 cm. This forms a 6 cm diameter nutrient paper basket.
Second, prepare the growing medium. Mix coal ash slag, decomposed leaf soil, or decayed sawdust with a small amount of garden soil. Crush and mix evenly, then spread and disinfect. You can use formalin diluted 50 to 100 times for disinfection. Add enough water to moisten the mixture and sieve it. Meanwhile, create small mud balls, about 1 cm in diameter, with moderate hardness, using yellow clay or sterilized soil.
Third, perform the cutting. Cuttings can be done throughout the year, but the best time is from mid-March to mid-April and mid-September to late October. Select 2 to 3 node shoots from the plant, approximately 10 cm in length. Use a sharp knife to make clean cuts and reduce damage to the stem tissue. Retain 1 to 2 pairs of leaves at the top and remove the lower ones. Insert the cuttings into the prepared mud balls, burying them halfway. Then place the mud ball with the cutting into the paper pot filled with the growing medium, covering it slightly with more soil. Each pot should contain one seedling.
Fourth, aftercare. After planting, the seedlings need to be shaded for the first week and then maintained normally. During strong sunlight or windy conditions, increase misting to keep the leaves hydrated and maintain soil moisture. Rooting usually takes 15 to 30 days. Once rooted, apply a solution of 1% to 2% urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate via spraying or watering to promote growth. When the new roots have developed sufficiently, the seedlings can be transplanted into pots or sold directly from the paper baskets.
Seedlings produced through spring cuttings are ready for harvest once or twice in the spring, typically between late June and early July. These plants have some heat tolerance and can flower in the shade during summer without showing significant dormancy. Autumn-cut seedlings are cold-resistant and can be kept in a greenhouse during winter without additional heating. They can withstand short periods of 0°C and longer exposure to 1°C, though they may show signs like red veins and curled leaves. If the temperature stays above 2°C, the seedlings will survive the winter. By the second half of the following year, they will begin to shape and bloom.
The ideal winter temperature for these cuttings is between 3°C and 6°C. Too high a temperature can cause elongated growth. This fast-growing method is simple and effective, solving issues related to dormancy and low-temperature sensitivity in summer. Under natural conditions, the plants can thrive for 6 to 7 months. However, one downside is that the paper baskets are fragile and cannot withstand prolonged rain. (Pan Jilan)
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