Goose down suede is a premium type of suede known for its durability, softness, and white fur. It has superior resistance to hair loss compared to rabbit fur, and its fluffiness surpasses that of tanned hides. Additionally, it offers excellent moisture and cold resistance, comparable to fox fur. This versatile material is ideal for making various garments such as jackets, hats, scarves, and shawls. It provides both warmth and elegance, making it a popular choice among consumers worldwide. With its luxurious feel and wide range of applications, goose down suede holds great potential for future development. Below is an introduction to the processing techniques used in producing this high-quality material.
First, the peeling process of raw goose skin.
1. Selecting high-quality goose feathers is essential for producing top-grade goose down suede. Choose adult geese weighing over 4 kilograms to ensure thick, dense skin with strong wear resistance. Look for geese with full fluff on their bellies and check the fur density by touching the fur patches. The color can be selected based on manufacturer needs—typically white, though some may prefer variegated hues.
2. Plucking the feathers: Before slaughter, feed the goose 25 ml of white spirit to help loosen the feathers. Once the goose is relaxed, pull out the large feathers and leave the fine hairs. Live plucking helps prevent large feather holes from forming on the leather. Start by removing the wing and tail feathers, then proceed to the neck, chest, abdomen, and legs.
3. Slaughtering: One person holds the goose’s wings against its back and stomps on its feet to keep it still. Another uses a knife to cut the neck, holding the head while stretching the neck. There is a slight groove in the neck where the jugular vein lies. Insert the knife into the upper third of the neck, cutting vertically through the neck meat 3-5 cm long, severing the blood vessels. Drain the blood into a basin. Rotate the knife around the head-neck joint to remove the head and neck skin, expose the muscles, and tie a rope around it to prevent movement. Use the knife to make a cut along the midline from the neck to the anus to fully peel the skin.
4. Peeling: Proper peeling is crucial for maintaining the quality of the skin. The knife must be handled carefully to avoid damaging the hide and to remove excess fat. Sprinkle sawdust on the blade to absorb fat and blood. Begin peeling from the head and neck, then move to the underarms and tail. When peeling the wings and leg roots, cut at right angles from the back of the wings and thighs, peeling toward the elbows and hocks. Be careful when peeling the upper wings, leaving only the tips and lower legs. For the back area, which has less subcutaneous fat, peel slowly to avoid tearing the skin. After peeling the back, continue with the chest and abdomen, where more fat is present. Hold the skin tightly with your left hand while peeling with the right. Cut around the anus before peeling off the entire skin.
Second, the rough treatment of the raw skin. After cleaning, scrape off any remaining meat and fat using a scraper or manually. Scrape from the head to the tail, applying even pressure. Rub the edges with a towel or sawdust to prevent oil contamination. Immediately apply anti-corrosion measures, as fresh skin contains water, proteins, and enzymes that can cause autolysis and spoilage. Two common methods are natural drying and salting.
1. Natural Drying: Lay the skin flat on a wooden board, fur side down, and dry it in a shaded, well-ventilated area. Since goose fat melts easily (at 20-30°C), it can spread into the skin, making further processing more challenging.
2. Salting Method: There are two types. The first involves sprinkling salt evenly on the skin, using 20-30% of the skin's weight, mixing it thoroughly, and letting it sit for 15 days. Shake off the salt and dry again. The second method uses a 25% saltwater solution for 24 hours, followed by five days of salted pile treatment, then flattening and drying. Regardless of the method, maintain a temperature of 10-20°C and humidity of 60-70%. Once the moisture content drops to 10-20%, store the skins in a well-ventilated area, grouped in piles of no more than 30 pieces each, with insect repellents placed inside the tanneries.
Biopolyols
Polyols are a group of alcohols that contain two or more hydroxyl groups in their molecules. The general formula is CnH2n+2-x(OH)x(x≥2). Polyols are generally soluble in water. Most polyols are viscous liquids or crystalline solids with high boiling points, strong solubility in polar substances, low toxicity and volatility. The boiling point, viscosity, relative density and melting point increase with the increase of molecular weight.
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