Japanese squash, also known as Western squash, is a premium pumpkin variety that has gained popularity in recent years, originally imported from Japan and South Korea. This unique type of pumpkin stands out for its tender and dense flesh, which is slightly sticky or creamy in texture, along with an excellent flavor and compact size. Typically, when harvested as a vegetable, each fruit weighs around 1 kilogram. It matures quickly, produces consistently, and is widely cultivated in greenhouses, making it a key vegetable crop.
**Environmental Requirements for Japanese Squash Growth**
As a thermophilic plant, Japanese squash thrives best at temperatures between 25°C and 28°C. It has lower heat tolerance compared to regular pumpkins, and growth can be hindered at temperatures above 32°C. However, it is more resistant to cold, with a minimum temperature requirement of 6°C to 8°C for normal growth. Flowering can occur at 15°C, but the plant cannot develop properly if the temperature exceeds 38°C.
The root system of the Japanese squash is well-developed, forming a large root network during the later stages of growth. The main roots can reach depths of up to 100 cm, though most roots are concentrated within the top 15 cm of soil. As a short-day plant, it benefits from shorter daylight hours and cooler temperatures, which encourage the formation of female flowers. In spring, early sowing typically leads to earlier flowering, with many varieties producing female flowers on the main vine after about 13 to 14 weeks. Japanese squash requires ample sunlight; under low light conditions, leaves may turn pale yellow, and the plant may struggle to thrive.
**Cultivation Techniques**
1. **Variety Selection**
Popular varieties include Hui Bishou from Japan, Dong Sheng from Taiwan, Jin Yuan from South Korea, Tian Fu from Shanghai, Jin Li from Hunan, and Gan Li from Zhejiang.
2. **Seedling Cultivation**
In the Yangtze River region, greenhouse cultivation usually begins in late December, with transplanting in February. For small sheds, sowing takes place between late January and early February, with planting in late March. Seeds should be soaked for 24 hours before germination. After germination, they are placed on a moist towel in a hotbed at 25–28°C. Once the sprouts are 3–4 mm long, they are transplanted into 10–12 cm diameter seedling pots. Alternatively, seeds can be directly sown in nursery pots and grown in a hotbed. The seedbed temperature should be maintained at 25–28°C, and a small arch shed is used to keep the environment warm and moist. After germination, the temperature is gradually reduced to 20–25°C during the day and 15°C at night. When the seedlings have two to three true leaves, spacing is increased to prevent overcrowding. At this stage, flower bud differentiation begins. Covering the seedlings with a shade net from 4 PM to 8 AM the next day can reduce the number of female flower nodes. Seedlings are ready for transplanting after 40–45 days, with 4–5 true leaves.
3. **Field Preparation and Fertilization**
Land preparation should be completed 7–10 days before planting. Each standard greenhouse receives 600 kg of decomposed organic manure and 25 kg of 15-15-15 compound fertilizer as basal fertilizer. The beds are made 120 cm wide with 60 cm aisles. Three beds are prepared per greenhouse, and drip irrigation systems and mulch are installed in advance. The small arches are removed once the soil temperature rises.
4. **Planting**
Before planting, the seedbeds are treated with 75% chlorothalonil or 70% mancozeb manganese. Each planting hole is filled with 3–5 compound fertilizers. Growers typically plant two rows per bed, with 50 cm spacing, resulting in 300–400 plants per standard greenhouse.
5. **Field Management**
(1) **Temperature Control**
Within the first 7 days after planting, the small arch sheds are kept closed to maintain warmth and promote seedling growth. Afterward, daytime temperatures should be kept at 25–28°C, and nighttime temperatures at 15–18°C. If temperatures exceed 32°C, ventilation should be increased.
(2) **Plant Training**
A 60 cm trellis is used, either with upright bamboo poles or "human" shaped supports to guide the vines. Pruning is done based on density, with both main and side vines managed. Each plant is left with 3 fruits, and the growing tip is pinched off after 8 leaves. Old leaves at the base should be removed before and after harvesting to improve air circulation and light penetration, reducing disease risk.
(3) **Fertilizer and Water Management**
During the early growth stage, only root fertilizer such as 1% urea solution or 10% compost tea is applied. Once the first fruit sets, 7 kg of fertilizer per greenhouse is added. After the first harvest, 3–5 kg of compound fertilizer is applied depending on the plant's condition.
(4) **Promoting Fruit Setting**
Artificial pollination is commonly performed. Male flowers are collected in the morning and used to pollinate female flowers. In early spring, a 0.004% anti-fall agent can also be used to enhance fruit set.
(5) **Pest and Disease Control**
Common diseases include damping-off in the seedling stage, and adult plants are prone to viral infections, sclerotinia, and powdery mildew. Pest issues include locusts, thrips, red spider mites, and cutworms. Prompt control measures are essential.
6. **Harvesting**
Japanese squash needs sufficient time to develop its sweetness and quality characteristics. Harvest timing should also consider market demand and plant health to maximize economic returns.
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