Japanese pumpkin early spring cultivation techniques

Japanese squash, also known as Western squash, is a high-quality pumpkin variety that has gained popularity in recent years, originally imported from Japan and South Korea. This unique type of pumpkin is characterized by its tender, slightly sticky or silky flesh, excellent flavor, and compact size. Typically, when harvested as a vegetable, each fruit weighs around 1 kilogram. It matures quickly, produces consistently, and is well-suited for greenhouse cultivation, making it a major crop in controlled environments. ### Environmental Requirements for Growth Japanese squash is a thermophilic plant, thriving best at temperatures between 25°C and 28°C. Unlike regular pumpkins, it is less tolerant of high heat—exposure to 32°C can lead to stunted growth. However, it is relatively cold-resistant, with minimum growth temperatures ranging from 6°C to 8°C. Flowering occurs normally at 15°C, but above 38°C, the plants cannot develop properly. The root system is well-developed, with main roots extending up to 100 cm deep, though most roots are concentrated within the top 15 cm. As a short-day plant, Japanese squash benefits from cooler temperatures and shorter daylight hours, which encourage the formation of female flowers. Low light conditions may cause yellowing of leaves and reduced fruit production, so adequate sunlight is essential. ### Cultivation Techniques #### 1. Variety Selection Popular varieties include Hui Bishou from Japan, Dong Sheng from Taiwan, Jin Yuan from South Korea, Tian Fu from Shanghai, Jin Li from Hunan, and Gan Li from Zhejiang. Each variety has specific characteristics that make it suitable for different growing conditions. #### 2. Seedling Preparation In the Yangtze River region, seedlings are typically started in late December for greenhouse planting in February. For small greenhouses, sowing can begin in late January to early February, with transplanting in late March. Seeds should be soaked for 24 hours before germination, then placed on a damp cloth in a hotbed at 25–28°C. Once the sprouts reach 3–4 mm, they are transplanted into 10–12 cm pots. Alternatively, seeds can be directly sown in nursery pots and kept in a hotbed. After germination, the temperature should be gradually lowered to 20–25°C during the day and 15°C at night. When two to three true leaves appear, spacing should be increased to prevent overcrowding. During this stage, shading from 4 PM to 8 AM can help reduce the number of female flowers. Seedlings are ready for transplanting after 40–45 days, when they have 4–5 true leaves. #### 3. Land Preparation and Fertilization Land should be prepared 7–10 days before planting. Each standard greenhouse receives 600 kg of composted organic manure and 25 kg of 15-15-15 compound fertilizer as basal fertilizer. The bed is made 120 cm wide with 60 cm aisles. Drip irrigation systems and mulch are installed in advance to improve moisture retention and soil warming. #### 4. Planting Before planting, the seedbeds are treated with 75% chlorothalonil or 70% mancozeb to prevent diseases. Each planting hole contains 3–5 granular fertilizers to support initial growth. Growers usually plant two rows per bed, with 50 cm spacing, resulting in 300–400 plants per standard greenhouse. #### 5. Field Management **(1) Temperature Control** For the first seven days after transplanting, small arch tunnels are used to maintain warmth and promote growth. Afterward, daytime temperatures should be kept at 25–28°C, and nighttime temperatures at 15–18°C. If temperatures exceed 32°C, ventilation is necessary. **(2) Plant Adjustment** Use vertical trellises or "human" shaped supports to guide vine growth. Prune regularly based on plant density, leaving about three fruits per plant. Top the vines after 8 leaves have developed. Remove older lower leaves before and after harvest to improve air circulation and reduce disease risk. **(3) Water and Fertilizer Management** During the early growth phase, only root fertilizer (1% urea solution or 10% decomposed manure) is applied. After the first fruit sets, apply 7 kg of fertilizer per greenhouse. After the first harvest, apply 3–5 kg of compound fertilizer depending on plant needs. **(4) Fruit Setting Promotion** Artificial pollination is commonly performed in the morning when male flowers are open. In early spring, a 0.004% anti-drop agent can be used to enhance fruit set. **(5) Pest and Disease Control** Common issues include damping-off in seedlings and viral infections, sclerotinia, and powdery mildew in mature plants. Pests such as locusts, thrips, spider mites, and cutworms must be monitored and managed promptly. ### Harvesting Japanese squash requires sufficient time to develop its characteristic sweetness and quality. The timing of harvest should also consider market demand and plant health to maximize economic returns. Proper harvesting ensures better yield and quality, making it a valuable crop for both commercial and home gardeners.

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